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The Mud Tyre Guide!
by superfly
Posted: Jan 19, 2009
Mud, mud, glorious mud, there's nothing more like it for cooling the blood! Today’s lesson is on Mud Tyres so best be paying attention as there might be a question or two later.
First off lets dispel all those idiots on the forum that say, “I ride Minions in the mud and they work really well”. Read on to learn what you really need to win races!
First off lets dispel all those idiots on the forum that say, “I ride Minions in the mud and they work really well”. Read on to learn what you really need to win races!
When the going gets tough we are here to talk about Mud Tyres which are also known as Spike Tyres. These funnily enough have rubber molded spikes which have two great qualities! First off they “Dig” into the ground for superb traction in corners and straights.
Now the clever bit! Unlike your standard High Roller / Minion Tyre with rubber shaped blocks that hold onto the mud and clog up, thus turning your rough knobbly tyre into a slippery slick looking affair. Spikes whilst rotating “Throw” the mud off as the mud has not much to grip onto between those spaced out spikes. By the time it’s got back around to contacting the ground it’s clear. There is one catch as always, you need to keep that mud tyre rolling, the faster it spins the clearer it gets, the more grip you have and the quicker you are!
Before we get to your choices of tyres, life isn’t that simple, we need to chat about compounds, the rubber itself.
These are measured using the Durometer rating, think of a hard skateboard wheel, they are usually 90-99a durometer. DH race tyres should be soft and grippy, only negative is they will wear out quickly. A brand new rear SuperTacky at Fort William goes in the skip Sunday night.
If you ride a Slow Reezay there it would be in that bin Saturday night! Slow Reezay is a compound with a durometer rating of 40a. This is a super soft compound with slow rebound properties, you can bend the spikes back and you will visibly see that they return slowly to their original position. This compound allows for traction and speed to be maintained on highly technical terrain. Ideally run on the front tyre! Awesome grip, slowest rolling resistance on the straights and wears out fast. JUST NOTE THEY ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE IN THE UK!
Super Tacky is a compound with a durometer rating of 42a. This means that it is a soft compound that allows the rider to have superb surface traction and is for race use only.
This is the most common durometer run on race circuits across the World and is the “Racers” choice. It will roll faster than a Slow Reezay, last longer but will have less grip.
MaxxPro 60a compound used to come with the orange band around it, that band has now been dropped. Maxxis has exclusive use of the Exxpro polymer, created by Exxon that is blended with the MaxxPro elastomer, which allows soft tyres to have a long tread life without compromising the increase in traction and lower rolling resistance that softer compounds provide.
This bits from the manual as I didn't take Chemistry:
All MaxxPro tyres benefit from 100% perfectly dispersed carbon black. The carbon black molecules are ground smaller and thus more closely arranged than carbon black found in other manufacturer’s compounds. The result is a smoother tyre surface that wears longer than traditional compounds. Maxxis’ perfect dispersion of carbon black also minimizes cut growth in instances where the tread becomes torn or cut. The tyre also rolls faster as a result of the rubber recovering quicker.
If you are on a budget these will last for ages, will wear well but grip is sacrificed. That said how about running one on the back at Fort Bill to help you stay up at speed? Also note these are top sellers for those out to France, Sweden or Whistler, again on the back they will last the full week and you won’t have to give some smelly French Frog 8.2 million Euros for a new tyre!
Nearly there:
Maxxis do two types of sidewall for their tyres, single ply or dual ply (sometimes called two ply). Single ply is very thin on the sidewall and great for XC, 4x or even trail bossing when pumped up to over 40psi. For DownHill they are as useful as a chocolate fireguard as the tyre rolls over as the sidewall as the foundation is thin and floppy as Tyler and Jordan's wrists. They will also increase your chance of pinch puncturing and kill you in a tight turn. They should carry a Public Health Warning like f*gs on them if you ever, ever intend to use them for DH.
For downhill you must have the Dual Ply, 60 *tpi (threads per inch) casings, vulcanized with butyl rubber and reinforced sidewalls provide more stability at high speeds and in the corners. You can then run lower air pressures for better grip without the risk of pinch flatting and serious injury after being spat over in a corner.
*TPI stands for Threads Per Inch. It defines the number of threads contained in one inch of the tire casing. The lower the number of TPI, the larger the gauge cords in the casing. Thus, the more durable the tyre becomes. The higher the TPI, the more lightweight the tyre becomes and the more supple the ride of the tyre.
What else?
Tubeless tyres allow you to run lower air pressure without having to worry about pinch flatting a tube. This allows for maximum traction because you have more surface area contact with the ground. You just need tubeless rims and a lot of patience unless your into that Stan’s No Tubes DIY kit. We will review one of those later.
Very nearly there, what width?
Realistically you are looking at a few options, narrow or wide? Now that all depends on the course conditions doesn’t it? General rule of thumb is - if it is really muddy, like when your trainer nearly gets sucked off when walking the course then the narrower the better. A narrower tyre will cut into the mud much better. The fatter the tyre the more chance it will float on top of the mud and have less grip. Think of that BMW 3 series spinning whilst an old Polo or Citroen 2CV rockets out of the muddy field.
Let's also think about your weight/size. Anyone under 10stone should be running a 2.35” or narrower tyre. Those over that weight as a general guide should be running a 2.5” and be going on a diet unless of course you are “Big Boned”.
You may also think about running a wider tyre upfront for extra grip when turning and run a narrower one on the rear to cut in and grip along the straights when you are pedaling your fat tits off whilst blowing out of your ass.
Now here are your tried and tested options:
Arrow Racing Mud-X 24x 2.3” which I guess will be a God send for all those Specialized Big Hitters out there? 9mm high spikes dig deep into the mud so you won't get slipping off anywhere, not the softest compound, why worry though, you will be running it on the back anyway. These will be mega on really muddy grassy courses like Moelfre and Rugog as those spikes will stick into anything. Guessing they would work a treat on snow as well!
Maxxis also do the Swampthing, rare as rocking horse pooh!
24x 2.5” 42a
24x 2.5” 62a
Now for the real boys:
Michelin Mud 3 UST (Tubeless Compatible but can be used with tubes!) 26x 2.2” Don’t be put off by that narrow 2.2” width, these come up in between a Maxxis 2.35 to 2.5” tyre. These were the tyre of choice at Rugog or Moelfre on a sodden wet, muddy peaty and grassy course. They dug in so well, just note there were no roots on that course. What you often find is some top boys who have to ride Michelin start cutting down those spikes slightly on wet courses littered with roots and rocks. You see those tall rubber spikes aren’t the most stable on rocks or roots as they flex around a little and this is the only mud tyre Michelin do.
26x 2.2” 42a
26x 2.5” 40a
26x 2.5” 42a
26x 2.5” 42a UST (Tubeless Compatible)
Very similar to the Michelin Mud 3s above, these definitely come out when the going gets tough and sloppy. They can be run in any direction so run them one week with the big yellow Maxxis logo on one side then swap the week after if you want them to wear evenly and can be bothered!
26x 2.5” 42a
26x 2.5” 60a
26x 2.5” 42a UST (Tubeless Compatible)
The SwampDonkeys as Will Longden calls them are commonly known on the circuit as the best all round mud tyre. Grip wise they are in between the WetScream and the HighRoller. When the mud is sticking to your frame and you then it is time to put on these little numbers. Just remember to run the yellow Maxxis logo on the drive side as they are directional. A close look at those knobs and you will notice they are ramped one side, this helps the tyre roll over obstacles. The backside is straight up so when braking giving the maximum vertical stopping ledge to help you stop on a dime.
Hope that makes sense? If not and you're trackside at a DH race in the U.K then pop on over and I'll hold your hand as we walk through tyre choices.
Stay Unclipped
Si Paton
www.Descent-Gear.com
Troy Lee Lids Instock!
Editor's Note:
Do you like articles like this or do you have something to say that would help others out in a technical manner? Well then contact me at brule.pinkbike.com and we'll get it out there for everyone to read!
Now the clever bit! Unlike your standard High Roller / Minion Tyre with rubber shaped blocks that hold onto the mud and clog up, thus turning your rough knobbly tyre into a slippery slick looking affair. Spikes whilst rotating “Throw” the mud off as the mud has not much to grip onto between those spaced out spikes. By the time it’s got back around to contacting the ground it’s clear. There is one catch as always, you need to keep that mud tyre rolling, the faster it spins the clearer it gets, the more grip you have and the quicker you are!
Before we get to your choices of tyres, life isn’t that simple, we need to chat about compounds, the rubber itself.
These are measured using the Durometer rating, think of a hard skateboard wheel, they are usually 90-99a durometer. DH race tyres should be soft and grippy, only negative is they will wear out quickly. A brand new rear SuperTacky at Fort William goes in the skip Sunday night.
If you ride a Slow Reezay there it would be in that bin Saturday night! Slow Reezay is a compound with a durometer rating of 40a. This is a super soft compound with slow rebound properties, you can bend the spikes back and you will visibly see that they return slowly to their original position. This compound allows for traction and speed to be maintained on highly technical terrain. Ideally run on the front tyre! Awesome grip, slowest rolling resistance on the straights and wears out fast. JUST NOTE THEY ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE IN THE UK!
Super Tacky is a compound with a durometer rating of 42a. This means that it is a soft compound that allows the rider to have superb surface traction and is for race use only.
This is the most common durometer run on race circuits across the World and is the “Racers” choice. It will roll faster than a Slow Reezay, last longer but will have less grip.
MaxxPro 60a compound used to come with the orange band around it, that band has now been dropped. Maxxis has exclusive use of the Exxpro polymer, created by Exxon that is blended with the MaxxPro elastomer, which allows soft tyres to have a long tread life without compromising the increase in traction and lower rolling resistance that softer compounds provide.
This bits from the manual as I didn't take Chemistry:
All MaxxPro tyres benefit from 100% perfectly dispersed carbon black. The carbon black molecules are ground smaller and thus more closely arranged than carbon black found in other manufacturer’s compounds. The result is a smoother tyre surface that wears longer than traditional compounds. Maxxis’ perfect dispersion of carbon black also minimizes cut growth in instances where the tread becomes torn or cut. The tyre also rolls faster as a result of the rubber recovering quicker.
If you are on a budget these will last for ages, will wear well but grip is sacrificed. That said how about running one on the back at Fort Bill to help you stay up at speed? Also note these are top sellers for those out to France, Sweden or Whistler, again on the back they will last the full week and you won’t have to give some smelly French Frog 8.2 million Euros for a new tyre!
Nearly there:
Maxxis do two types of sidewall for their tyres, single ply or dual ply (sometimes called two ply). Single ply is very thin on the sidewall and great for XC, 4x or even trail bossing when pumped up to over 40psi. For DownHill they are as useful as a chocolate fireguard as the tyre rolls over as the sidewall as the foundation is thin and floppy as Tyler and Jordan's wrists. They will also increase your chance of pinch puncturing and kill you in a tight turn. They should carry a Public Health Warning like f*gs on them if you ever, ever intend to use them for DH.
For downhill you must have the Dual Ply, 60 *tpi (threads per inch) casings, vulcanized with butyl rubber and reinforced sidewalls provide more stability at high speeds and in the corners. You can then run lower air pressures for better grip without the risk of pinch flatting and serious injury after being spat over in a corner.
*TPI stands for Threads Per Inch. It defines the number of threads contained in one inch of the tire casing. The lower the number of TPI, the larger the gauge cords in the casing. Thus, the more durable the tyre becomes. The higher the TPI, the more lightweight the tyre becomes and the more supple the ride of the tyre.
What else?
Tubeless tyres allow you to run lower air pressure without having to worry about pinch flatting a tube. This allows for maximum traction because you have more surface area contact with the ground. You just need tubeless rims and a lot of patience unless your into that Stan’s No Tubes DIY kit. We will review one of those later.
Very nearly there, what width?
Realistically you are looking at a few options, narrow or wide? Now that all depends on the course conditions doesn’t it? General rule of thumb is - if it is really muddy, like when your trainer nearly gets sucked off when walking the course then the narrower the better. A narrower tyre will cut into the mud much better. The fatter the tyre the more chance it will float on top of the mud and have less grip. Think of that BMW 3 series spinning whilst an old Polo or Citroen 2CV rockets out of the muddy field.
Let's also think about your weight/size. Anyone under 10stone should be running a 2.35” or narrower tyre. Those over that weight as a general guide should be running a 2.5” and be going on a diet unless of course you are “Big Boned”.
You may also think about running a wider tyre upfront for extra grip when turning and run a narrower one on the rear to cut in and grip along the straights when you are pedaling your fat tits off whilst blowing out of your ass.
Now here are your tried and tested options:
Arrow Racing Mud-X 24x 2.3” which I guess will be a God send for all those Specialized Big Hitters out there? 9mm high spikes dig deep into the mud so you won't get slipping off anywhere, not the softest compound, why worry though, you will be running it on the back anyway. These will be mega on really muddy grassy courses like Moelfre and Rugog as those spikes will stick into anything. Guessing they would work a treat on snow as well!
Maxxis also do the Swampthing, rare as rocking horse pooh!
24x 2.5” 42a
24x 2.5” 62a
Now for the real boys:
Michelin Mud 3 UST (Tubeless Compatible but can be used with tubes!) 26x 2.2” Don’t be put off by that narrow 2.2” width, these come up in between a Maxxis 2.35 to 2.5” tyre. These were the tyre of choice at Rugog or Moelfre on a sodden wet, muddy peaty and grassy course. They dug in so well, just note there were no roots on that course. What you often find is some top boys who have to ride Michelin start cutting down those spikes slightly on wet courses littered with roots and rocks. You see those tall rubber spikes aren’t the most stable on rocks or roots as they flex around a little and this is the only mud tyre Michelin do.
26x 2.2” 42a
26x 2.5” 40a
26x 2.5” 42a
26x 2.5” 42a UST (Tubeless Compatible)
Very similar to the Michelin Mud 3s above, these definitely come out when the going gets tough and sloppy. They can be run in any direction so run them one week with the big yellow Maxxis logo on one side then swap the week after if you want them to wear evenly and can be bothered!
26x 2.5” 42a
26x 2.5” 60a
26x 2.5” 42a UST (Tubeless Compatible)
The SwampDonkeys as Will Longden calls them are commonly known on the circuit as the best all round mud tyre. Grip wise they are in between the WetScream and the HighRoller. When the mud is sticking to your frame and you then it is time to put on these little numbers. Just remember to run the yellow Maxxis logo on the drive side as they are directional. A close look at those knobs and you will notice they are ramped one side, this helps the tyre roll over obstacles. The backside is straight up so when braking giving the maximum vertical stopping ledge to help you stop on a dime.
Hope that makes sense? If not and you're trackside at a DH race in the U.K then pop on over and I'll hold your hand as we walk through tyre choices.
Stay Unclipped
Si Paton
www.Descent-Gear.com
Troy Lee Lids Instock!
Editor's Note:
Do you like articles like this or do you have something to say that would help others out in a technical manner? Well then contact me at brule.pinkbike.com and we'll get it out there for everyone to read!
103 Comments
- + 1
jammyboy366
(Jan 19, 2009 at 15:29)
Big fan of the swampthings, but never find the michelins and the wetscreams quite as good, even in the UK where wet tyres are essential. Probably riding style i guess.
WTB Timberwolf is the best tire for mud! No other tire Ive tried for mud is as good as timberwolf! It does not pack the mud anything at all and the grip is sooooo good even grippy in dry conditions 
They should carry a Public Health Warning like f*gs on them if you ever, ever intend to use them for DH.
wow...
wow...
[Reply]
Funnily enough, I took delivery of my Swampthings this morning - first time on mud tires 
Now if only the rest of the bike will turn up
Now if only the rest of the bike will turn up
Mud tires call for muddy riding, and muddy riding is always good fun. It's the cleanup afterwards that sucks.
[Reply]
dude, the swampthings are a great all around tire, that is for loose stuff, they tear up soft dry and the mud wet, but when it comes to rolling resistance for hardpack, goodluck!
Swampthings are great, I borrowed a wheel last year for a race that had a Swampthing on instead of my High Roller and it was soo much grippier, they make an amazing difference...
thats kind a weird but lots of good polish riders race on 40a swampthings in the dry. They throw them away after two races but it seems to work for them... I know PL is "different" in general but they actualy get good times 
He's just being sarcastic and making the reading interesting and not to serious! don't take him literaly on all things.. cmon man ur english you know what our humour is like
well yeh of course i dont, im only been downhilling for 5 months...
i might do a gap year before uni, then hopefully get into it =)
i might do a gap year before uni, then hopefully get into it =)
The michelin mud 3 is a good tyre, it aslo works well on a transition to harder surfaces. intense intruder is also a good uk tyre.
yeah i run 909's in every thing up to what i would call 'proper' mud , love the things , then the wet screams come out and the trails ger ripped to pieces!
wetscream all the way,you canr un them in mid summer at moelfre and theyll be fkin amazing.
2.5 supertacky.
theeeeeee best
2.5 supertacky.
theeeeeee best
Yea i'l definately second this, the schwalbe black shark muds are phenominal in muddy conditions and not far off the mud 3's, not sure why they didn't get a mention but hey ho!
[Reply]
Got arrows with slow reezay. Only thing i can say, they grip like nothing else on semi-muddy courses. Haven't tested those michelins yet.
[Reply]
although i thought the artical was great seemed well informed, is nobody gonna mention that the author kept calling TIRES tyers what the hell if your going to go throught all the work of making an artical spell everything right, also i saw a bunch of comments about the minions if you think there great for mud your a retart the design sucks in mud.
loganflores, if you are going to bitch about correct spelling, I think you should check your spelling first, and maybe also your grammar. Here in England, we spell TYRE the way it should be, the correct way.
Mr Paton has spent his time writing a good article to inform people about the products, not about spelling and grammar.
Mr Paton has spent his time writing a good article to inform people about the products, not about spelling and grammar.
Hey loganflores, I thought the 'artical' was really well presented. And despite your knowledge, people in other countries do tend to spell words differently.
People do seem to forget what country the english language came from.
People do seem to forget what country the english language came from.
Well maybe you all should have a look at where pink bike is centraly located. most of its users are from canada and the us and in this part of the world were the site is located an mainly used we spell tire the way every manufacture and normal f*cking person does, but excuse my ignornace if thats the way you do things then good for you, also i know i am not good at spelling and therefore i get my shit checked before i post an international artical intended to help people.
It would be interesting to read your international article as quoted following: "therefore i get my shit checked before i post an international article intended to help people". I'm certain that we all could learn a few things from your 18 years of life experiences’.
ya poke fun at my age thats real mature. iv been biking at least 4 miles a day for ten years that may not seem like a big deal to you people, but i ride all weather all year all styles, i dont cut down other riders i support them, i commute 8 miles a day, and iv worked in bike shops and am going to full time high school and full time college so get a ife stop picking on other riders and learn to respect people younger than you they may have something to teach you, im f*cking sick of comments about age
You just proved my point. If you don't think that asking "what the f*ck are you talking about" isn't controversial (that means a put down) then I wonder what you are taking in college.
Tommy,
Me race? Yes in Masters every weekend!
National DH Champs Bronze Medalist
National 4x hamps Silver and Bronze Medals
NPS 3rd Overall before I quit racing to organise the NPS itself.
Midlands Champ 3 times
Me race? Yes in Masters every weekend!
National DH Champs Bronze Medalist
National 4x hamps Silver and Bronze Medals
NPS 3rd Overall before I quit racing to organise the NPS itself.
Midlands Champ 3 times
[Reply]
well i am goin a different direction guys ..bontager big earl in 2.6 wey compound . lovin it . also intense 909 or intruder great for the slidy stuff . in terms of cloggin up i find the faster you go the less you clog ..
Yeah how come no black shark mud (schwalbes)?
Im running the mudy marys and stuck like a nail in wood in the nasty stuff in the NW from frozen to deep mud wet grass etc... i can only imagine the BSM hooks up that much better.
Im running the mudy marys and stuck like a nail in wood in the nasty stuff in the NW from frozen to deep mud wet grass etc... i can only imagine the BSM hooks up that much better.
It's a real shame that in North America, Maxxis offers very few of their "Mud" tires. The only tire they show on their site is the Swampthing, and they don't even offer the UST version. I don't know what their thinking, because there is a need for those tires. I have no choice but to run Mud3's even though I much prefer Maxxis tires.
[Reply]
[Reply]
Bullcrew,
Schwable had a big recall here in the UK as the beads we not sitting correctly and blowing off, hence I would not go near them with your barge pole..
Loganflores:
although i thought the artical was great seemed well informed, is nobody gonna mention that the author kept calling TIRES tyers what the hell if your going to go throught all the work of making an artical spell everything right, also i saw a bunch of comments about the minions if you think there great for mud your a retart the design sucks in mud.
Lecturing me about grammer?
You just won the record for the Worlds longest sentence! No capitals.
What are "Tyers" by the way.
"Retart" is that retard you meant? Surely you of all people know how to spell that?
"There great for mud"? Did you mean "They are".
Sharpy many thanks for explaing to Loganflores that in Great Britain we spell tires with the letter Y! (Color-Colour, Curb-Kerb etc..)
There was me thinking we got rid of America's biggest idiot today and up Loganflores pops to embaress every Amercian on this site.
Schwable had a big recall here in the UK as the beads we not sitting correctly and blowing off, hence I would not go near them with your barge pole..
Loganflores:
although i thought the artical was great seemed well informed, is nobody gonna mention that the author kept calling TIRES tyers what the hell if your going to go throught all the work of making an artical spell everything right, also i saw a bunch of comments about the minions if you think there great for mud your a retart the design sucks in mud.
Lecturing me about grammer?
You just won the record for the Worlds longest sentence! No capitals.
What are "Tyers" by the way.
"Retart" is that retard you meant? Surely you of all people know how to spell that?
"There great for mud"? Did you mean "They are".
Sharpy many thanks for explaing to Loganflores that in Great Britain we spell tires with the letter Y! (Color-Colour, Curb-Kerb etc..)
There was me thinking we got rid of America's biggest idiot today and up Loganflores pops to embaress every Amercian on this site.
I had that problem with the schwalbe black shark. Doing about (upto) 50mph on a sweeping corner coming to the bottom of Skiddaw mountain! what a mess when it rubbed the paint off the insdie of my 40s leg!! 
Stupid gays!
Stupid gays!
As i said, i am not good at spelling or gramar for that matter, and if i were to post an international artical intended to help people not only would i have someone check the gramar but i would also fact check and see what is relivant to the people reading the artical, and although spelling is not normaly important to most people i know lots of people who read the artical and said what the f*ck is a tyer. also the gramar in comments on this site is horrid. Finaly taking cheap shots at foregn people over the internet is pathetic and makes your argument very childish, im i were to do the same i might mention a few wars we helped you out with or on of the many other steriotypes that people have about brits but i wont go there cause im f*cking grown up.
The moderators should read this stuff before they post it.
The term "f*gs" in North American Speak means a very dufferent thing than the term in the UK.
I dont particularly care what team you bat for, but there should be some consideration given towards the use of foreign slang and its percived interpretation but the majority of readers... I would not want Pinkbike to be perceived as haters of any minority.
Apart from that... Nice Article!!!
And I am a big fan of the Swamp Thing....
KF
The term "f*gs" in North American Speak means a very dufferent thing than the term in the UK.
I dont particularly care what team you bat for, but there should be some consideration given towards the use of foreign slang and its percived interpretation but the majority of readers... I would not want Pinkbike to be perceived as haters of any minority.
Apart from that... Nice Article!!!
And I am a big fan of the Swamp Thing....
KF
I was thinking the same thing when i read that, and how it made no sense at all until I realized that he was from uk.
And to all the people saying he spelt tyres wrong. Don't be so ignorant...there is nothing wrong with it.
And to all the people saying he spelt tyres wrong. Don't be so ignorant...there is nothing wrong with it.
I got kenda's for Christmas haven't used them yet are they any good? 2.7 in the front and 2.5 in the rear.
Oups spelling.
I got Knead's for Crhismtas hvane't uesd tehm yet are tehy any good?
Oups spelling.
I got Knead's for Crhismtas hvane't uesd tehm yet are tehy any good?
It was only the DH casings, it was a voluntary recall and they have fixxed the problem. They are also giving you 2 tires for 1, if you have 2 tires effected by the recall they will send you 4 of the new ones. I dint know of any other company that would do that, most would go 1 for 1!
Id assume that by giving you 2 for 1 and no questions about it that they had the problem worked out or else they would just compound the problem and liability. Apparently it was also a certain batch which would suggest it was a molding error where the compounds didnt bond!
My buddy bobby Root rides the big bettys and slaughters them I have a few pairs from him from last year. Id assume they are the ones in ?, I have all new stuff now and so far no problems.
Id assume that by giving you 2 for 1 and no questions about it that they had the problem worked out or else they would just compound the problem and liability. Apparently it was also a certain batch which would suggest it was a molding error where the compounds didnt bond!
My buddy bobby Root rides the big bettys and slaughters them I have a few pairs from him from last year. Id assume they are the ones in ?, I have all new stuff now and so far no problems.
Either way its still a good article and pretty funny timing for me as I was just searching over the last week or so for opinions and different tires for differnt apps and MUD was the main one after the weather here!
So either way I like schwalbes and Ill ride them with confidence and of the tires listed I like wet screams and the michelines! Good article!!!!!
So either way I like schwalbes and Ill ride them with confidence and of the tires listed I like wet screams and the michelines! Good article!!!!!
Wetscreams all the way!...what about Medusas though? they are a solid mud tire that roll well on rocks and roots.
wetscreams are amazing i rode one on the front at a very sloppy top section of bringewood on sturday and it wasnt going anywhere
Informative!
I use the a swamp thing at the front all year round where I live in the UK, its lasted me a whole year of wet and dry riding so far and still has plenty of tread left on it - I prefer the Continental Gravity or Diesel tires at the back though!
A couple of things to note about this write up. First running tubeless can allow you to run lowers pressures, but the better attribute of using tubeless is that you can run more PSI, not less. The tire without a tube conforms better to the ground since its not as stiff as with a tube. So you can have equal traction with more pressure which means you can roll faster. You also will lessen the chances of burping air or rolling the tire off the rim.
Second, in mud conditions, a narrower tire is generally the way to go. I say generally because sometimes a very rocky course with lots of mud suits a wider tire... sometimes. Lots of greasy loam or slick mud, a 2.2" tire is perfect. You want something that bites into the ground not floats on top.
Decent article. The main point is that you should be testing various types of tires in various types of conditions. Don't stick to one set up for the whole season. Even from front to back, you can vary what types of tires you can run.
Second, in mud conditions, a narrower tire is generally the way to go. I say generally because sometimes a very rocky course with lots of mud suits a wider tire... sometimes. Lots of greasy loam or slick mud, a 2.2" tire is perfect. You want something that bites into the ground not floats on top.
Decent article. The main point is that you should be testing various types of tires in various types of conditions. Don't stick to one set up for the whole season. Even from front to back, you can vary what types of tires you can run.
"Idiots" is a bit harsh no? I actually do like Minions in the mud. I don't think it should incite namecalling.
i went riding yesterday (in california) and it was dusty haha
but good read
i guess it can help if it ever gets muddy here again
but good read
i guess it can help if it ever gets muddy here again
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anyone who still says minions r good in mud are idiots. i have one on the front and there absolutely terrible for mud. just oushing up a hill they will get packed solid with mud
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f*gs in the UK mean cigarettes, hope that doesn't offend any smokers out there that i've told you that you will die one day?
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Kenda's? You on crack cocaine or something better!
Everyone knows even the top riders sponsored by Kenda rode Maxxis with the Kenda name blackened out.
Everyone knows even the top riders sponsored by Kenda rode Maxxis with the Kenda name blackened out.
i just chose my mud tires, wetcreams. 60a in rear and 42a in the front. great article really helped me make up my mind
the TIOGA black turtle mud tires work well, they have xc and a stiffer slightly wider dh version as well.
im a tit, i just noticed that some one already mentioned the tioga tires as a good mud tire,still good though
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